It goes without saying, that some collections have historical value. And so, the fashion world turned its eyes to the Maison Margiela runway at Paris Fashion Week with intrigue extending far beyond the clothes at hand. It was John Galliano’s debut ready-to-wear collection for the house after taking reigns as Creative Director, and given his rich and tormented heritage in the elite fashion community – it was a definite moment.
Galliano slipped his initial return to fashion under the radar in January, when he unveiled his couture collection among menswear in London. It didn’t make huge waves when it happened, but has been quietly stirring since. Key moments? Rhianna sporting a suit from the collection in her Grammy performance with Kanye West and Paul McCartney. Then we had two moments at one of fashion’s biggest nights: the Academy Awards. Red carpet queen Cate Blanchett selected an understated black dress from the collection. As well, Anna Wintour herself, a longtime friend of Galliano, also adorned herself in Galliano for Margiela couture for the event.
After the turmoil surrounding Galliano’s departure from Dior, where he was exiled and shunned by fashion’s elite due to anti-sematic comments (while intoxicated and clearly provoked, I may add), it’s glorious to see the world open their arms a bit to the man who dazzled us for over a decade! And so, I obviously have to take a moment to tip my hat to Galliano and the house of Margiela for ushering us into a new era.
What do we think of the collection as a whole?
The collection definitely felt like Galliano being Galliano – albeit, a bit contained. When stepping into the shoes of an established fashion house as creative director, there’s always that fine line between honoring the traditions of the brand while adding your signature mark. Margiela’s deconstructed was there, but a bit exaggerated in Galliano spirit.
Standout looks to me are the embellished velvet suit jackets and pants. The menswear theme definitely continues but this season Margiela put an eclectic spin on the traditional look by mishmashing textures, color and at times print.
Another great thing of this collection was the use of a muted, fall appropriate color palette — injected with electric brights. It was cheerful, in an otherwise dark collection. And, OF COURSE there was the eye makeup – which was seriously on point! I think we all need to start adorning ourselves with eyeliner designs, wouldn’t you agree?
How do you feel about John Galliano’s return to fashion?